I'd been planning to visit my uncle Ron (henceforth UR) and auntie Rennie (AR) in Australia for a long time but this Christmas I finally made the trip. After a brief stop in Toronto I flew to Sydney via Hong Kong (on Cathay Pacific). I'd always expected Hong Kong to be an island packed full of towering buildings so I was quite shocked to discover that more of its surface area is covered by hills than buildings. Other than that my flight there was about what I expected: a seemingly endless tedium punctuation by 5 movies. I also read The Da Vinci Code.
On my 1st day in Sydney we visited the Taronga zoo (pictures are in the previous few posts). They have the world's largest colony of chimpanzees and I enjoyed watching their antics. Despite being slightly smaller than an average human, the average chimp is about 5 times stronger because their densely packed muscle fibres, which also make them much heavier than us. Strength aside, it is remarkable how similar they are to us: they exhibit guilt - one of the chimps once bit off the fingertip of a volunteer and now she can't bring herself to face that volunteer again - and succumb to the same diseases we do, including dementia in their old age.
The bird show was unbelievable because I had no idea it was possible to train wild birds to the degree they have accomplished. My suspicion is that they just pretend to talk to the birds while secretly using whistles beyond the range of human hearing to command the birds. But that doesn't make the show any less impressive. We also attended a talk about reptiles where I met a Python called Ruby. That's only of interest if you're a computer geek though.
Because I was eager to see some of the flagship Aussie animals we sought the koalas next. Despite their cute teddy-bear-like appearance, these creatures are not only boring but dangerous. Both qualities stem from their diet of nothing but eucalyptus leaves, which don't provide them with enough calories to support an active lifestyle but make their urine highly corrosive (an effective defence mechanism when used in conjunction with their sharp claws). However, they probably don't care because they spend their lives perpetually high from the mind-altering drug that occurs naturally in eucalyptus leaves.
Taronga keeps their giraffes and zebras in the same enclosure. They also have a blind giraffe who relies on her sense of smell to eat. Apparently those deceptively slender legs are powerful enough to kick the head right off a lion! After watching the giraffes being fed we visited the Kodiak bears. While male Kodiaks are larger than the grizzlies, Taronga now has only female specimens and those are significantly smaller than the males. There were no elephants, although some are expected to arrive shortly, but there are a couple of fake elephant statues instead.
We found the zoo hard to navigate because the maps were not quite accurate and the signage was scarce. I found it easier to find my way around Sydney's extensive train system, which I like better than that of either Vancouver or San Francisco.
After leaving the zoo we watched a busker juggle knives, a chain-saw and flaming torches atop a pole while eating an apple. I think I've seen the same guy at BuskerFest in Toronto over 2 years ago. Back then he used to do this while cycling on a tight-rope. He must be getting old.
I tried to play a didgeridoo and managed to figure it out while standing in the store so I bought one. The technique is similar to playing a trombone but there's no hand movement required. The trick is to vocalize weird sounds while blowing through vibrating lips into the didgeridoo. Because making weird sounds comes naturally to me I hope this might be an instrument I can actually master.
Hanging out with UR was neat because we share some of the same strange habits like waking up ridiculously early in the morning without an alarm clock, constantly eating and spewing sarcastic wisecracks at every turn. He also had some fascinating stories about my dad's entrepreneurial adventures from their youth. Apparently dad sold an old Sinclair computer to a chicken farmer by writing some software to calculate the amount of each ingredient to use for chicken feed and bundling it with the machine as a complete solution.
On my 2nd day it was supposed to be extremely hot (38 degrees) so we decided to go kayaking and visit the beach. The first thing our kayaking instructor had us learn was how to escape from a kayak if it tips over. I freak out when water shoots up nose so I wasn't particularly eager to experience this and managed to escape from the kayak before my face had even hit the water, which was a sharp contrast to AR who had trouble getting her skirt off while suspended upside-down in the water from the overturned kayak. But I found it much easier after the instructor told me to hold my nose with one hand before I tipped over.
We learnt the basics of kayaking but stopped short of learning how to roll. I picked up everything but the culling draw stroke pretty easily. Then we used inflatable kayaks (called funyaks) to go down class 3 white-water rapids. At one point we spun around and were going down backwards, which was rather disturbing, but aside from that it was a thrilling experience.
Sadly, while we were on the ferry to Manly beach, it turned cold. We went into the surf anyway but I couldn't handle staying in very long. It was the first time I've swallowed sea-water in a decade and I felt slightly nauseous but recovered while UR and AR changed their clothes.
The 3rd day was Christmas so we went to St. Mary's cathedral in Sydney. It's the longest church I've ever seen, being about one and a half times as long as St. Mike's in TO. The acoustics were terrible though so I only caught the tail end of every sentence the bishop said, which didn't help my attention blip any.
We had lunch with some friends of UR and AR who also happen to know my mom's entire family from a long time hence. They actually had a niece visiting from TO whose brother goes to UW. A merry time was had by all until we eventually left. Both UR and I were ravenous by then so we stopped at an Indian hole-in-the-wall joint that made up in authenticity what it lacked in hygiene; my kind of place.
On boxing day I climbed the Sydney Harbour Bridge. The view was magnificent and our guide was entertaining. In addition to the standard landmarks, he pointed out the residences of John Travolta and Russell Crowe as well as buildings used in The Matrix and Mission Impossible. He also told us a story about this guy who dove off the bridge and injured himself horribly upon impact with the water surface below. Apparently you can accelerate quite a bit in 5.2 seconds.
That night we drove back to Canberra. In the morning UR and I visited the sculpture garden outside the National Gallery of Australia where I saw some fascinating industrial sculpture and a few Rodin pieces. After that we went to the old parliament building, which was superseded in 1988. Interestingly, the speaker's chair was a gift from the Canadian government.
Apparently it had no pub when it 1st opened because an American masquerading as a Canadian had convinced the local government to prohibit the sale of alcohol. However, this didn't last long because the very 1st thing that the MPs did upon arriving in the building was to strike down that law and have a pub built. It had a party room where MPs could gather for informal discussion within a party. At one point the prime ministry changed hands in there when the reigning PM resigned and was replaced with another member of his party.
The next day we visited the new parliament building but on the way there we saw something most interesting: the Aborigine tent embassy. It's a collection of tents surrounding a fire that were erected in protest against the despicable treatment of Aborigines by the Aussie government and have remained there ever since.
At the new parliament building I saw one of the only 4 existing copies of the Magna Carta. The writing on it is barely legible. An unusual architectural decision was to nestle the building into a hill so that people could actually walk over it as a sign that the government exists to serve the people and is bound to their will.
In the afternoon I went horseback riding for only the 2nd time in my life. There were flies everywhere and my horse found them even more annoying than I did. But I did experience cantering for the first time. It was very bouncy. Neither of the instructors told me that I could have countered the bounciness by standing in the stirrups.
Very early the following morning I went up in a hot-air balloon and had a look at Canberra from the sky. The balloon was much noisier than I'd expected due to the regular need for reheating it via a burst of flame. I noticed that the architects who designed the city had a penchant for symmetry.
After I got back UR and I tried changing the tubes on his bike - something neither of us had ever attempted before - but we misaligned the wheels on our 1st try, although he later fixed them. I tried biking for a while at some point but the extremely hot weather made it rather unrewarding.
In the afternoon we visited the National Museum of Australia, which is one of the country's best tourist attractions; astonishingly good for an entirely free experience. The museum is divided into 3 themes (Land, Nation and People) and has 5 main sections. I spent so much time exploring each exhibit that I didn't manage to finish looking at one of them before the place closed for the day.
The day after that I thoroughly explored the National Gallery of Australia. One of the 1st exhibits was a short video of a girl who sews a doll for herself and then falls asleep with the doll beside her. While the girl sleeps the doll comes to life and sews up the girl. It was cute until the end when it gave me the creeps. Another interesting exhibit was a video projection of an animated face onto a white sphere so that the picture appeared to have a contour.
There were some ancient Hindu statues on display. I noted with a touch of irony that, amidst the plethora of big-busted female figures was one of Lakshmi, the goddess of abundance, with a noticeably flat chest. I also discovered an entire section of paintings devoted to the story of Ned Kelly, an Australian folk villain. He seems to be the Aussie analogue of Dick Turpin.
On my last day in Canberra UR and I visited the Canberra Dinosaur Museum, which is Australia's largest stationary collection of dinosaur fossils. I'd never been to a dinosaur museum before and spent a very long time in there. Despite having an avid interest in dinosaurs all my life, I managed to learn many new items of interest.
We went out for dinner 3 times in Canberra, sampling Spanish, Portuguese and Australian food (kangaroo). Kangaroo was good and I was surprised at how infrequently it is eaten down there, considering that they're in no danger of extinction. Perhaps they're hard to domesticate like bison in North America.
On my way back I flew to SYD from Canberra on the tiniest plane I've ever been inside. It seated only 4 people per row (2 on either side of the single aisle) and rattled while we took off. It was 43 degrees in Sydney that day and I was expecting a 60-degree drop in temperature when I walked out of YYZ but it turned out to significantly warmer (at 0 degrees) than I'd expected. This time I watched 6 movies and began to feel like I'd been living on an aeroplane all my life by the time we approached Pearson.
When catching the flight from YYZ to SFO I got held up for 20 minutes waiting for a jammed conveyor belt at US customs so I could dispatch my didgeridoo and consequently missed the boarding deadline by 10 minutes. But that turned out not to matter because the flight was delayed by 45 minutes. It then took us longer in the air than expected and they neglected to send my baggage on the plane with me so I got held up even longer waiting for it at SFO and missed the last regularly scheduled Caltrain to Palo Alto.
I thought I could take a bus instead until I discovered that I'd managed to miss the bus while looking up the schedule. In desperation, I conned a cabbie into driving me home at half the usual rate. On the bright side, my baggage was delivered to me fairly soon so I have it now.